Chikan work is similar to the white work of the Western countries. This embroidery seems to be a gift of the Mughals to India, also there are several other myths as for the origin of this dainty art. Originally this embroidery was done using white untwisted cotton or silk thread on very fine white fabric like muslin or silk. Now voile, organdy and terry voile are also used and twisted cotton or raron thread is used for embroidery. Now Chikan work has become very popular in India. So many artifacts like table linen, hankerchifs, saris, salwar kameez, dupatta, gents Indian ethnic wear, shirts etc. are embroidered by the woven of Awadh.
Designs are mainly of scrolling floral or leafy patterns, when embroidered, creating a shadoo- like effect on larger flower motifs and raised effect when smaller motifs are worked.
Stitches used are six basic stitches, which are used in combination with a series of some other stitches, to create a fascinating and delicated effects. Shadow work- Herringbone stitch or Appiqu'e done on the wrong side to give a shadow effect. Buttonhole, very fine satin stitch called murri work is very typical of Chikan work; Cretan, Stem stitch and Pullwork and Khatao or Darazdar- an appliqu'e technique is worked upon to complete the repertoire. Some other stitches used are Chain, Couching, Whip running and Roumanian.
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