Pulkari is flower work, mainly done on Shawls, worn with a tight fitting choli( blouse) andghaghara( long skirt). This was the traditional costume of the rural women of the this region.
Fabric used for this embroidery art is thick hand woven cotton(Khaddar) ; usually in rich earth red or indigo blue. Thread used in this embroidery is thick untwisted flass silk, mainly in yellow, orrange and white, with small accent in green or other colors.
Stitch used is simple and akin to the Damask stitch.
The motifs are embroidered from the reverse side of a thread outline, particularly in the case of chape or Bagh designs. Only one thread is taken up with each pick of the needle, leaving a long stitch below to from the pattern on the right side, each stitch being not more than 1/4th" long.
In addition stitches, double running or chain stitch is used from the outline of figures of birds animals and human, which are then filled in with darning or satin stitch. Satin and stem stitch is used on Phulkari borders and blanket or buttonhole stitch for finishing the edges.
Motifs of Phulkari and Bagh are mostly made up of horizontal, vertical and diagonal stitches producing geometrical floral patterns as the name itself implies.
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