Surat in Gujarat and Varansi and Lucknow in Uttar Pradesh are the main centers for gold and silver embroidery; popularly known as Zardosi work a persian tream for gold embroidery.In the 19th century two distinct types of gold embroidery predominated:
- Zardosi - heavy laid work upon velvet, satin or heavy silk.
- Kamdani - light and delicated work in gold and silver plated threads and spangles upon very fine muslin or silk, with the help of aari hook ( tambour ) creating a delicated chain like effect.Material used in olden days were real gold and silver flatted strips and thread plated with the precious metals, pearls, reals and semiprecious stones, beetles wing eases, leather etc. Now to make it affordable immigration material is being used. Sequins, glass beads, bullion or salma a very thin metal wire tubularly twisted, gold cords and silk floss is used. Fabric used are silk, velvet, Georgette, chiffon, muslin, organza, net and some polyester blends. Designs and motifs are mostly floral and birds and animals, like parrot, peacock, elephant and camels are seen sometimes. Stitches are Stem, Satin, Long and short, Beading, Couching and a chain like stitch with different spacing, done with the aari hook.
This is the most popular embroidery used by the top most designers for embellishing fineries for special occasions.
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